It may have been the hardest things I have ever done . (FYI.   This was done in 2018 so something may have changed post pandemic)

It’s true, while I consider myself generally fit I will admit that not training harder for the 24+ mile trek across the Grand Canyon was not a good idea. It’s long, it’s hard, it’s an unbelievable physical and mental challenge and it’s downright amazing.

Okay so that being said, this first timer’s blog may help you navigate this incredible experience.

QUICK “RIM TO RIM” FACTS

No permit is required for day hikes

It’s a long hike – about 23.9 miles

You can take a detour to Ribbon Falls but that will add some time and mileage.

Let’s talk about the elevation changes. They are no joke. Your training is less about jogging but more about hiking up hills, especially when you don’t want to.

Remember it’s about 14 miles down and then a little over 9 to get back up.   And that 9 feels much longer.

North Rim to South Rim via the North Kaibab Trail (elevation 8,241 ft – 14.3 miles – mostly a descent) and the Bright Angel Trail (mostly an ascent – 9.6 miles – elevation 6,860 ft) which is estimated to be a total of 23.9 miles.

PLANNING – WHICH WAY TO GO?

First decide which way you want to go.

Do you want to walk from the North Rim to the South Rim or the other way around.

I was a newbie but I made the trek with people who have done this anywhere from 2 to 11 different times and here is their take.

North to South
Better views, more isolated at the start and closer to home at the finish. (four hours from Scottsdale/Phoenix)
Also more crowds at the finish should you need help and better beer and ice cream choices to reward you at the finish line

South to North
Lots to do pre-hike if you get there early.
Last push out is shorter, fewer crowds and fewer burros at the finish
But longer drive home (Six hours to Scottsdale/Phoenix) you will likely end up spending the night on the North Rim before heading home

PLANNING.

Either way you will need some lodging . You will need to plan….like a year in advance if you want to stay in the National Park.  Low supply and high demand, and the reservations open in April.

https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/lodging.htm

You will have to work on shuttles, remember you are only hiking one way.
We had two groups, so people could return cars from either side. I can’t take credit for that brilliance we had an excellent person working on logistics for us..

OUR JOURNEY

So here’s what we did.

My husband and I hiked with friends who live in Scottsdale, but we flew into Phoenix from California a couple of days before we took off and took the opportunity to get some r and r before the work began.

THE DRIVE

Our group of 5 left about 8 Scottsdale in the morning with a first stop about 2 hours into the drive at Flagstaff which was a great spot to stretch our legs and get a bite.

2 hours later (4 hours in) we took a stop at the Navajo Bridge
There are bathrooms, a visitor center and a little history.
From there you are only about 90 minutes from the Grand Canyon. Go ahead walk across the bridge, enjoy the drive, and stretch the legs.

North Rim

There are fees to drive in. The friendly ranger will be there to collect your 30 dollars.

From the entrance gate it’s a short ride to the North Rim lodge. There is plenty of parking but you may want to be more strategic about where you park depending on where you stay. The motel style rooms are a decent walk from main lodge where you check in.

North Rim lodge – This is the only lodging available inside the National Park on this side. You’ll have some other options if you go to the South Rim.

If you can’t stay here your closest lodging outside of the park is 18 miles away. That’s the Kaibab lodge

Lodging is tough to get . This place is only open May 15 through October 15 because there is too much snow in the winter.
Just getting here puts you in a smaller group. The NPS says only 10 percent of Grand Canyon visitors get to this side.

Elevation…at this point you are at 8000 feet

The North Rim Lodge

First of all, the views will take your breath away when you check in.

You can sit inside on couches where it’s warm and look out, or you can go outside and enjoy one of the most spectacular sites around. It’s something to look out and try to imagine walking all the way down and then all the way back up.

Food options

If you are hungry there are a few options

There is a deli with some simple hot food options, pizza was a fan favorite for big groups

If you would like to sit down you have two options.

There is a buffet that will run you about 30 plus dollars but on the night we were there we got some prime rib with that.

And then there is full dining reservations fill up quickly so if you are looking for that

All the options come with that million dollar view

Lodging – rooms or cabins

You have options to stay in the main lodge or the cabins and then motel style rooms

This was a nice place to stay. It’s basic and fairly quiet, no t.v.’s spotty wi-fi but what else do you need but the outside !

There are a couple of different options, the cabin and the motel style rooms. You aren’t going to spend a ton of time in either so all was fine.

The Hike

Supplies

Chris K, has planned this thing for 11 years. He made a list of things we needed and so I followed that list with loyalty. It’s not a bad idea to do the same. So here it is.

• Suggested GearSmall backpack or camelback with: Water/Gatorade (4 liters)
• Food (trail mix, jerky, energy bars, gu, dried fruit, pb&j, gum)
• Headlamp or small flashlight (early start)
• Moleskin or band aids Ibuprophin Sunglasses Sunscreen iPod with sweet tunes
• Camera or phone
• Plastic trash bag to cover backpack
• 2 Shirts (one long sleeve and one short sleeve)
• Light waterproof jacket (I never wear one)
• Shorts 2 Pairs socks (second pair is for blister management)
• Hiking shoes Light gloves Hat (baseball or full-brimmed)
• Compression shorts (underwear to prevent chafing)
• Sports bra
• Hiking poles (I have rented them for everyone that requested)
• Second small bag (to send via car back to Scottsdale) with: Dirty/Clean clothes Toiletries

Starting the hike

We started off at the North Kaibab Trail

North Kaibab Trail: The trail begins on the North Rim at the head of Roaring Springs Canyon and descends to the Colorado River. Elevation from rim to river is 5850 ft (1780 m), along a 14.2 mi (22.9 km) trail.

Start early

3:45 a.m

I cringed at the thought of waking up that early. It was cold it was dark and it was so darn early. But this is a long hike and universally everyone at the end who is walking in full sun during mile 23 wishes they had started even earlier. All veterans of this hike don’t hesitate to get up at o-dark hundred because the benefits outweigh the sleep deprivation. We got going with our head lamps and my hiking shirt plus a light sweatshirt was plenty to stay warm. It gets warm soon enough

The downhill.

It’s about 14 miles down to the bottom of the canyon when you start on the North Kaibab trail. In the cool morning hours it is just amazing to descend with darkness. The trail is easy and well marked and if you are concerned about the length of time you might want to keep up a pretty good pace here. You can’t see much anyway and it’s nice to chat and fool yourself into thinking the whole hike will be this easy.

Bathrooms and water!

5.4 miles into the hike you find Manzanita

Real bathrooms! Yes there are bathrooms along the trail and there is also a chance there to fill up your water supply.

Manzanita is your first stop along the trail.

It’s a good goal to drink the water in your pack before you get to each of these stops. It’s hard to ensure you are drinking enough so make that your goal.

Sunrise

We hiked for a few hours before that sun came out to say hello. And when it came up, I loved that it came up slowly quietly peaking around the huge cliffs and into the caverns of the amazing Grand Canyon.

At 7:42 (about 4 hours into the hike) that’s when I first really saw the sun coming up and started to feel the heat.

Ribbon Falls

It’s where the fairies live. I can’t tell you how much I love Ribbon Falls.

This however, was the source of debate among the two hiking groups. When you are already hiking 23 plus miles you have to ask yourself if it makes sense to take a detour. Ribbons Falls is about a half mile from the North Kaibab Trail. Doesn’t sound like a lot until you add a mile to your total and then a half hour or so detour to what is a long day.

I was determined to see it and remember we were on the downhill and the sun hadn’t quite come up so I still felt like a superhero.

We had one reluctant member of our hiking party but I’m stubborn so we all went and I have to tell you I have no regrets. Even at the end when I couldn’t pick up my feet without cringing and wanting to cry I was glad I went.

The water comes from over the edge of this moss covered rock and trickles down in yes, ribbons! but there are also little caves that birds will fly in and out of. Combined that with the falling water and the result is magical.

Phantom Ranch

Congratulations when you get here you are officially at the bottom of the Grand Canyon and 16 miles into your hike.

There is a little cafe there, and cabins for folks who aren’t crazy enough to try to hike the whole canyon in one day. Bathrooms and water are available but it’s also just a good time to have lunch and take a break. The hard work is ahead

The Bottom.

Bright Angel Trail: The trail begins on the South Rim just west of Kolb Studio, and descends to the Colorado River. Elevation change from rim to river is 4460 ft (1360 m), along a 7.8 mile (12.6 km) trail. This trail passes through Indian Garden

The walk across the bottom of the Grand Canyon is humbling and beautiful. When you walk across the metal bridge to the Colorado River it’s an incredible feeling.

This was the sweet spot. A lot of miles under your feet but the water is gorgeous, it’s a cool spot. Enjoy it the tough work is ahead.

Jacob’s Ladder

Sneaky sneaky Jacob. This is the start of what will feel like a never ending climb and it creeps up on you. When we started up this trail I noticed the change in the ground, it gets sandy and rocky.

What I will tell you is that it’s hard to understand when you start this how hard it’s going to be because it feels fairly gradual. But it is never ending. For the first time we were in full sun, so the heat was steady. This is where our group spread out because everyone was pacing this differently. I would suggest walking in pairs. The buddy system is always a good idea.

I will tell you this is where my decline started and really accelerated. I underestimated the heat and my fatigue and the long miles ahead.

The goal was to get to Indian Gardens which was about 4.4 miles away and about 2/3 of the way there I started getting chills and feeling really hot. I should have stopped. I was determined to get to the rest stop. In retrospect I should have listened to my body and slowed down took a rest and cooled off. Because I didn’t headache set in and the rest of the climb was hard to really hard. I think I had a little bit of heat stroke and at a minimum heat exhaustion. Those things need to be taken seriously.

Indian Gardens

This was like an oasis in the desert. I think I said is that it about a dozen times before we finally rounded a corner and found the much needed rest area of Indian Gardens
I am not ashamed, okay maybe a little ashamed to admit that it was here I collapsed in the first shady spot I could find, flat on my back ready to take what my friend called a dirt nap.
What I really needed to do was just get my body temperature normalized and hydrated and get some food.
I did all of those things but I was exhausted by pushing through.
I made sure to douse my shirt and some bandanas with water to try to stay cool.
This was my longest break, I stayed for probably close to 30 minutes. I was a little worried that if I didn’t get up and just get it done I would sleep there.
This was a wake up call. Training more would have made me better prepared. As the organizer of the trip told me afterwards, it’s about being ready to be on your feet for that long

The Final climb

If it wasn’t clear, this last climb was not going to be easy. I knew it even before I began.
The mental game of this last 5 miles is pretty remarkable. You look up and wonder how you are ever going to get to the top, you walk for what seems like forever and you look up and it’s almost like the rim is even further!

Here’s the reality. There are 43 switchbacks that you have to cross to get to the top…back and forth and back and forth. . and back and forth.
I was warned before the trip by my husband, but wow to experience it is a whole other ballgame.

This is when you are in survival mode. Everything hurt, and my feet felt like they were so heavy. I had hiking poles and in some moments they were a lifesaver, in others, because I was leaning too heavily on them, they were hard on my back.
My husband was a trooper stayed with me the whole time. If I could have quit I would have but he reminded me often that the only way to get out was to walk out.
We were in full sun most of the way so I walked from shady spot to shady spot, not hesitating anymore to stop when I needed to. I drank a ton of water and more than a few energy jelly bellys to get me going. I never stopped for that long but I did stop a lot and at the two rest stops along the way I took a break got some water and tried to dig deep.
When you go up, keep in mind you are watching people just starting their descent, fresh with energy and with big gulps and cute shoes! They have no idea what you are finishing and I am pretty sure I was not looking my best.

As the crowds get bigger the end still seemed a world away, around every turn I thought this must be it.

It finally was and I made sure not to stop until right outside the lodge and bar and gratefully slid to a sitting position at the top.
Final thoughts

What an incredible experience. I must admit that it took a couple of weeks for me to be able to appreciate all the tiny magical moments and look through the tough spots.

The Grand Canyon is amazing. It is incredible in its views and elevation changes and to see it this way in one day is a gift.

That being said you need to respect it. It is not going to be conquered easily. If you want to truly enjoy it you shouldn’t be miserable through it. The only way to do that is to train, uphill for hours at the time. I didn’t do that.