If you are looking for the most popular spots in Copenhagen, there are lots of blogs and places my family of 5 didn’t get to, but if you are thinking you might not make it to any museums and churches and castles because that’s not what your kids want to do, then this blog might be helpful for you.

So travelling with two teenagers and a twenty-year-old is challenging, not because my kids aren’t awesome because they are, but they can also be a tough crowd.  I mean you can wake them up and you can make the reluctant ones go to all the museums and tourist attractions you want to see but as many parents of teenagers know that can come at a price.  So if you are like me, and are trying to balance what everyone wants to see, who doesn’t mind a lazy morning at a coffee shop and is okay if a four day trip doesn’t include some of the more typical choices here’s a look at what we did.  Copenhagen is known for being an expensive spot to visit so I look for more affordable ways to spend the visit too.   All in all, my kids seemed happy so I was happy.  And yes as a disclaimer…. We stayed there for four days (mostly three since the fourth day was spent heading to the airport), with a 20-year-old, 17-year-old and 15-year-old and my husband, so by no means did we become experts but hey we had a good time and I think there is lots of value to just rolling with it (that’s a skill I’m still learning).    And to put things in perspective with a population of around 600 thousand Copenhagen is about the size of Denver, Colorado. Denmark has a population of 5 million, meaning the entire country is about the size of the states like Colorado and Alabama.

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at a 2-bedroom apartment hotel right next to Central Station and Tivoli.  The two bedrooms had a queen bed and two twins and there was a fold out so that means everyone in our family of 5 had a bed of their own, which for us is a priority. As just a location, it was great. It’s only a few stops from the Copenhagen airport to Kobenhaven H which is Central station and there are food choice closes, and there are a lots of hotels within a block or two of that makes it easy to just roll your way there.   Warning…cobblestone is charming in pictures but can make rolling luggage bumpy, just keep that in mind. I’m putting this ridiculous picture in because we travelled in July where it is daylight from 3 am until 10 p.m. so black out curtains are a must if you would like to sleep. It is just something to keep in mind.

OUR BEST TIP

We took pictures for our holiday card.  Yes, I know its July, but don’t ask my kids about my obsession with annual family photos because that’s for another blog.  However, there was an added benefit to this.  I found our photographer on Instagram by just searching Copenhagen family photographers and looking for people who fit our style and price range.  I found a wonderfully talented woman named Renate Meimere who had a very cool traveler’s package. A two hour tour while taking pictures. We spent the photo shoot walking around to several of the most popular spots.  Those included the iconic Nyhavn, a place you will want to stop by, Frederiks Church, Christiansborg Palace, Copenhagen’s oldest street, and City Hall.  We walked from spot to spot and we got fabulous pictures and we got some insider information from Renate who is from Latvia but who has lived in Copenhagen for the last four years.  Full disclosure we followed almost all of her suggestions and they were all fantastic.   The photo shoot was awesome, it gave us a local’s perspective and was a great way to start the trip.  As an added bonus within a day she had a sneak peek of her pictures which we all loved.

GETTING AROUND

Day one we took the train; it was easy although buying tickets was a little confusing.  There are several staffers on the platforms in order to ask directions.  However, the trains were empty and I’m pretty sure that’s because literally everyone has a bike. 

Bikes

Renting bikes made us much more efficient.  We rented bikes and because it is Copenhagen and literally everyone seems to have a bike.  We rented from a corner shop near our apartment but it seemed like every hotel had loaner bikes for their residents so I would definitely check on that because you could save some money.  The place we went to wasn’t that reliable so I don’t want to post that link, just in case you can find something more convenient. For those of you who don’t or can’t ride bikes or whose children may too young for the ride, there are actually a decent number of people using bikes that are Christiana cargo bikes so I think it’s a doable option for most!  It’s literally like a box with a seat in it, so kids and adults can get a ride without having to pedal! The daily rates are pretty reasonable and if you have one you don’t have to navigate trains and you can see much more of the city more quickly.  Copenhagen is actually not that big but walking it is time consuming and tiring especially over several days.  Also there are bike lanes literally everywhere so it makes it very easy to get around.   If you aren’t on a bike be very careful that you aren’t walking in a bike lane because this is not leisurely riding, almost all of these riders are on a mission and you’ll want to get out of their way.

Renate’s tips

Okay so I was so grateful to have a few tips from Renate and I only feel like its good measure to pass them on to you!

Nyhavn and the Boat ride

This is probably the most photographed iconic spots in Copenhagen (I have no statistics to back that up but there are a million pictures in this spot) and its packed in the best way. It’s truly enchanting to turn down the streets and see all the restaurants, flags and boats.  Some caveats, the food comes at a premium because you aren’t just getting fed you are getting the whole deal.  But if you are also looking for an inexpensive way to get a tour of Copenhagen this is also the spot to get on a tourist boats for a good deal.  An hour on one of the big tourist boats costs about 7 dollars and they tour is done in English and gives you a really lovely view of Copenhagen.   You don’t need to buy tickets in advance, just get there and get in line. It doesn’t cover everything.  The little mermaid statue is pretty popular; from the water you can see the back of it!

Reffen  https://reffen.dk/en/

Reffen is all about street food and it was a favorite spot because everyone could pick what they wanted and it just had a cool vibe.  I know it’s a tourist spot, but there are so many great spots in Copenhagen that with the effort it takes to get there, you feel like you are a cooler tourist for making the trek, if that’s even a thing.   It’s also very affordable, and in fact I was told it’s the only place to find good affordable food.  There are according to the website 40 food stalls and bars (I did not count), 100 seasonal events and 2500 seats so lots of places to hang out.  The food was affordable, with most of the stuff we looked at costing about ten bucks which is less than what our food trucks in California can cost and did allow us to splurge and feel like we at the volume that American’s can typically look for. Add to that it’s right on the water and there are countless booths offering international choices for street food and it’s all a win.  It’s a little bit out of the way so it was a great bike ride or you can ride a bus there. 

Absalon    https://absaloncph.dk/en/

This was also super fun if you like to check out a little different vibe, it’s called social eating.  Important to note, the tickets to this event sell out so you have to buy at least a few days in advance.  But a win…it’s also affordable (right around 50 dkk per person which is a little less than 7 bucks).  This is a dinner held in a converted church. The idea is that the community can come together and meet each other and share a meal.  This is a different vibe I was told than what people usually do.  We sat next to these three woman who are locals and high school friends who eat there frequently. We had an absolutely lovely time talking with them but to be honest they were surprised that we were so friendly and actually said that it is unusual for the Danish people to talk with strangers.  They say normally groups come together but don’t talk to other groups. It appears its cultural so don’t be offended if your friendly advances are not received enthusiastically.  I talked to an Irish shop owner who said she also took her family there and didn’t talk to anyone new…. I guess we are just really persistent haha.

Freetown Christiana  https://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/planning/christiania-gdk957761

This is such an interesting place to visit. It’s considered an anarchist community and apparently had an open cannabis trade for about a half a century.  It is counter culture, it’s a hippie spot, … it’s quick history according to the website the CultureTrip.com “In 1971, a group of hippies broke down the barricades and began squatting there. Nowadays, approximately 900 people live in the area, comprising a community that has its own rules and regulations completely independent of the Danish government”.  As you might guess the smell of marijuana is prominent, but you won’t find open selling in what’s called the green district.  There are no cars allowed inside either but we rode our bikes in and just walked around and it was a cool quick stop.  You could stay longer have a beer and some food and you can shop at some of the stores there but I think it was just interesting to see this community that started as an experiment.  Like other spots I couldn’t call this space friendly (although it is also not unfriendly), there is no music playing and its strangely quiet, but it is certainly interesting to see the businesses and people who call Christiana home. 

Shopping https://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/planning/stroget-gdk414471

We did a lot of shopping.  There are a couple of big malls, and then the famous Street in the heart of the city that has streets that wind through the area near city hall.  It really has a little bit of everything from the big chains to the vintage stops.  I would make sure to check out some of the smaller boutiques and that’s a great time to chat with some local shop owners, but that’s just me.

Food

It’s expensive, but there are a lot of choices.  Copenhagen is home to Noma what is called the best restaurant in the world.  Let’s just say I couldn’t get a reservation and at 500 dollars per person, we are more likely to head to Reffen.  Coffee and pastries in coffee shops, I could do that all day! And waffles and ice cream are a pretty common thing!

Random notes

• Cost of water

If you are from the U.S., you may be used to unlimited water.  Well that’s not the case.  Water is not free. We were charged 5 dollars for a liter of water, and when you have basically 5 adults, we blew through three.   So yes 15 dollars for what was tap water was a little shocking.  You’ve been warned.  One of the malls we went to did have a free water filler, so a water bottle would have been great, if you carry one

• Interactions – so as mentioned above, locals tell us it is not common for strangers to talk to strangers.  In fact, my husband went on a couple of runs, and said it was at times super awkward when he smiled at people he was passing by.  The Danish people we talked to, say strangers don’t talk to strangers so I just mention it so you don’t take it personally.
• It’s a quiet country – From our experience, things are quieter in Denmark at least inside.  I don’t think we went into any café where there was music playing, so coffee houses were quiet.  I think in the U.S. we often have a music bed to everything we do, whether its riding in an elevator or getting takeout.  It’s not a big deal.  I was trying not to be the stereotypical loud American but just thought I’d make note.

-Language – Everyone speaks English, so that was very easy.  I’m big on at least learning how to say thank you in another language and in Danish, Tak, is thank you.